Tuesday, June 27, 2017

Tuesday, June 27th:  Wow - has it really been that long since we've posted?  We've been doing long driving days to cover some distance, and then were in 2 areas with no connection for internet, so will try to catch everyone up.

After our mountain-goat-almost-killing-someone adventure, we spelunked Jewel Cave the next day.  The cave was beautiful, with very different types of rock and geologic formations.  Not really "jewel-like", but a jewel in terms of its unique characteristics.  There were sparkly crystal formations, thus "Jewel Cave".  Our guide was full of information about the cave and it's history.  The Park estimates, based on air flow studies that have been conducted, that only 5% of the cave has been "discovered"!


After touring underground, we spent the afternoon at the Crazy Horse monument.  We were there before when we took Mom to North Carolina, and I have to say I was disappointed this time around.
The first time we were there they had many local artists who were actually creating items - this time there was a lot of "stuff" for sale, but no one really working on the creative process.  It seemed much more commercial.  It was, however, interesting to see the progress made on the mountain.  It is a slow process, as it is all being done as funds become available, and there are no public funds involved.  We then headed back to the motor home for a quick dinner and hit the sack.

Up and on the road early the next morning, running for Nebraska.  We went south on US 385 through Hot Springs, SD, which is a pretty little town with many beautiful sandstone buildings. While we were driving through a huge siren went off - thought at first they were glad to see us!  Kept trying to see what it was for but never saw anything except when Deputy Sheriff with lights.  Figured it might have been a fire siren.  Would like to go and spend a little more time there looking at the buildings and taking a dip in the hot springs.  

Drove through the Nebraska National Forest - Mike said it consisted of about 20 trees.  There were stands of pine and hardwoods - got a good chuckle out of that.  Drove by Chimney Rock - a landmark for pioneers on their way west on the Oregon Trail.  Many of them memorialized their passage by carving their name and dates on the rock.  It is visible for miles in any direction.

Picked up US 26 and then I-80 at Ogalalla, NE - fond memories of time spent at Grandma and Grandpa Nelson's place there as kids, catching fireflies with the Beck cousins (they were Aunt Nadine's parents and we always stopped to see them when headed for North Carolina).  We don't usually run the interstates, but were making time, headed for Kearney and the wonderful Archway Museum there.  I'm sure we travelled US 26 when I was a kid, as it is a main east/west route.  Was fun to reminisce about the road trips!  Overnight in North Platte at the "Walmart RV Park (aka "free camping"!), up and on the road early.

Stopped at a wonderful little museum in Gothenburg, NE, which was an original line station for the Pony Express.  The town was founded by Swedish immigrants.


 Spent a fun 30 minutes looking at their displays, then back on the road, headed for Kearney.  The Archway museum is a "must see" if you ever go through Kearney.  It is dedicated to the travelers of the Oregon, California and Salt Lake trails, as well as the development of our early highway systems.  It is actually built over I-80, and has wonderful interactive exhibits that tell the stories.


Back on the bus and eastbound, running hard to get some mileage under our belt.  Freeway driving isn't our first choice, but it is a good way to make time when we want to.  Crossed into Missouri and turned south towards Kansas City ("going to Kansas City, Kansas City here we come, they got some crazy little women there and I'm going to get me one" - I think that was a Fats Domino song and it kept running through my mind).  Listened to a book on tape to help pass the time - thanks, Betsy!  Crossed the southwest corner of the state, and had originally planned on going to see the Budweiser Clydesdales near Boonton, MO the next day.  However, as the saying goes, a failure to plan is a plan to fail.  Didn't check ahead (silly me!) and discovered that (a) you must have reservations (which were booked until mid-July) and (b) they are closed on Wednesday.  So, on to Plan B, which was to head for Branson!   Overnight at another Walmart RV Park in Higginsville, MO, then headed for Branson. Oh, breakfast at Cracker Barrell, parked in about 12 parking places as there were 6 cars taking up all the clearly marked RV Parking ONLY spaces!!!  One of their local "characters" was on the porch talking to himself as we went in - made us feel right at home!

Have been finding gas for $1.99/gallon - that has been nice.

Arrived in Branson mid-afternoon on Wednesday and checked into "America's Best Campground." Highly rated by Good Sam - a nice campground with very friendly and helpful people. Hot and humid, and Baxter was miserable.  Cranked up the AC, did a little laundry and just kicked back for the afternoon.  It cooled down a little that evening so we did a drive tour to see what was "up" - very commercial, lots of things to do.  We ended up in "downtown" and took Baxter for a stroll on the river-walk.  Very nice, much cooler, and then back to the campground for a movie and to bed.

Decided on a show Thursday morning for that evening, made our reservations, and then just relaxed and enjoyed the AC.  Went to see the "Grand Jubilee" show that night - wonderful quartet, good music, a funny comedian and an enjoyable evening.  Bought a video of the performance to share with everyone.  Back to the campground and hit the sack.

On the road by 8 AM Friday,crossed into Arkansas and headed for Murfreesboro, AR and Crater of Diamonds State Park.  It was so humid the AC in the motor home fogged up the outside of the windows as we were getting ready to go.   Decided to take the scenic route (Arkansas Hwy 7) and it was definitely scenic.  Twisting and winding, with some interesting signage!  Signs kept telling us "crooked, windy road" and they were right!  Those who ride motorcycles would love this road!  Just took our time and enjoyed the Ozarks.  We weren't  completely sure, but we thought we might have heard dueling banjos a few times!   Mike was impressed with an armadillo road kill that had 6 buzzards on it, and they were almost willing to argue with the motor home over who had the right of way!  Again, took longer than we thought, but was worth the drive.




Drove through Hot Springs, AR - childhood home of Bill Clinton.  Resisted the temptation to open the windows and yell "Hi, Bill!".  Knew we were in the south when we saw our first magnolia tree!  They sure are pretty.

We also saw a live turtle in the road - he was like a slow speed rabbit, trying to decide which way he should go.  Have never seen a turtle move that fast!   We straddled him and last we saw he was turned around and headed for the shoulder.  Hope he made it! Never saw a dead turtle, but lots of armadillos, raccoons & possums, wonder who's better at crossing roads?

Drove through the Qualchita National Forest, which is made up of pine plantations, planted in grids, and about a 100' scenic buffer along the highway.  Mike's trained eye could see the clear cuts on the other side of the 'scenic' buffer.

Got to Murfreesboro and Diamond Crater - the state park there was full.  We found a Corp of Engineers campground at Parker Creek on Lake Greeson (a flood control dam) which was really nice and much cheaper.   Hardwood forest, nice campground, but water too, so Glennis was totally on alert for SNAKES!  (she hates snakes!)   It was 98 degrees and about 200% humidity when we arrived - miserable!.  Cranked up the AC, took Baxter to the boat launch (concrete, not grass, so no snakes!) and got him wet to cool off.   Drove back to Crater of Diamonds to take a class on diamond hunting (panningt like for gold - diamonds are heavy and sink to the bottom so when you dump screen they are on top) and get our tickets for the next day.  Bought some ice cream at a quick stop and when we came out of the store it was POURING!  Had a big thunder and lightning storm, which was good, as it cleared out the humidity.   Had planned on going swimming to cool off, but decided lightning and water don't mix. So back to the motor home and to bed.

Up and at the Crater by 8:30, ready to find the big diamond.  Day was much cooler and much less humidity.  NEWS FLASH:  We did NOT find any diamonds!

 But we did have fun, got to spend some time with a nice young couple and their kids (they were "helping" us look through our gravel piles, from 4 buckets). Had high hopes of finding a treasure, as the rain the night before was a good omen for finding diamonds, but no luck.  The little kids had fun picking out "pretty rocks" and putting them in their bag.  Made us miss our own two munchkins - they would have had a great time.  Got muddy (Arkansas mud is REALLY sticky) but the weather was perfect so all was good.   Cleaned up, and had lunch at a wonderful Mexican restaurant in town.  Mike asked for a beer and discovered Polk County is a dry county - no alcohol to be had! Mike had a dish called "Delicious Cancun" which was great and so was the fresh  limeade. Back to camp, took Baxter for a walk, tried to watched a movie in bed, didn't get even 10 minutes into it and we were asleep...

Up and on the road by 9 AM on Sunday.  Stopped outside the campground to hook up the Jeep.  Learned it is not a good idea to stop and be on the road, as two vultures promptly appeared to check and see if we were an available food source!   Even though we were moving around, they looked pretty hopeful.

 Hooked up and on the way, soon saw 10 buzzards soaring around an armadillo and a skunk road kill (two-for-one special) with 3 more buzzards having a morning snack.  They are very efficient at cleaning up dead things, that's for sure.  

Drove through Arkansas and Mississippi, following the Trail of Tears (Indian relocation) headed for the Natchez Trace .  We knew we were in the deep South, because almost everything was closed!  Drove through the Mississippi River delta - can see for miles in every direction. We were amazed at how well the cemeteries are maintained in the South - they are all mowed, flowers on the graves and green!  Lots of nice brick homes, also modulars and trailers, and a few scattered mansions. Very rural, the creeks (aka bayous) are really muddy and slow moving (SNAKES!).

 The highway department LOVES roadside spray and uses it liberally, (no "will maintain by owner" signs here!)   Saw egrets aka "cow birds" and big white heron-type birds.  Started seeing fields of cotton, corn, sugar cane and rice. Everything was really green.    Stopped for gas just before crossing into Mississippi and saw an actual, working payphone!  Saw two bright yellow crop duster planes "dusting" the fields right next to the highway - very acrobatic and excellent pilots!




 Crossed the mighty Mississippi and picked up the Natchez Trace near Milepost 97.  Spent Sunday night at a wonderful little FREE National Park Service campground at Jeff Busby Park on the Trace. Hardwood forest, and lots of mosquitos!

 Withstood marauding raccoons at 2:30 in the morning -the rascal stood up on it's back legs, pushed the very heavy lid off the garbage can with a very loud clang twice (after Mike put it back once), and got what it wanted before running off.

Monday morning and headed for Red Bay, Alabama and the Tiffin factory.  Drove the Natchez Trace up to Milepost 300, then cut over to Red Bay.  Played "total tourist" and stopped at every little wayside.





 Nice, relaxing day, only traveled about 120 miles today.  Checked into the Tiffin Service Center, visited with a bunch of other Tiffin owners, and now I'm caught up with the blog.  Will meet with service person in the morning about what we want done with the motor home.  There must be at least 75 Tiffins in the company RV park here, with a large percentage of them being diesel pushers - pretty impressive.  Walked around and visited with other owners, simple supper and catching up on the blog/downloading hundreds of pictures from the camera.

Met with the service tech this morning (Tuesday) and went over our list.  They will hopefully have us all done and on the road by tomorrow!



Forgot to tell an hysterical story about a tourist from Ohio and a pilot car driver that we witnessed in Montana!  We were in a construction zone, and the Ohio car was the only one between us and the pilot car driver.  So we start off, and the Ohio car keeps driving in the normal traffic lane, instead of following the "follow me" sign on the back of the pilot car.  So the driver swerves over, gets in front of the car, rolls his window down and points over to the other lane (very emphatically, I might add). The Ohio car narrowly misses hitting a steam roller head on, and finally figured out "follow me" means "follow me when I change lanes".  So then a little later the pilot car changes back to the right hand lane, and the Ohio car keeps driving in the left hand lane. The pilot car swerves back over in front of him, gesturing and pointing back to the right lane while looking back at the Ohio car.  The car finally moves over and then the pilot car pulls over into the ditch to let everyone go by, and the Ohio car pulls in behind him.  By now we are laughing so hard we have tears running down out faces.  The pilot car driver is screaming and pounding on his steering wheel, and gets so upset he spills his big cup of water all over himself.  He leans out the window, screams at the Ohio driver, tries to wave the Ohio driver around him, and finally the flagger comes over and tells the Ohio driver to go around the pilot car and continue on.  I wish we could have taken a video - it was hysterical.  I don't know if the pilot car driver will ever recover!!!

Things we've learned over the past few days:

  • Cell service in the Ozarks and the Mississippi delta sucks - at least for Verizon
  • It's really, really, REALLY dark inside a cave when they turn the lights off!
  • Be careful about laying around outside - the vultures may come for you!
  • Being a pilot car driver is not without risk and could be dangerous to your mental health
  • Streams in this area don't make any noise - probably because they are moving so s-l-o-w!
  • I STILL HATE SNAKES!
  • People in the South are so polite - while we were hooking up the Jeep when leaving Murfreesboro, two people stopped to see if we were OK or needed help!

Mike and Glennis





Sunday, June 18, 2017

Up bright and early the next morning, and ran to a Forest Service campground between Custer and Keystone – Oreville campground.  Scored a spot for 3 nights, moved the motorhome and got settled in.  Back in the Jeep and off to Mt. Rushmore, where we did a ranger tour and walked the President’s Trail for close-up views of the presidents and lots of information on how it was constructed.   Brave, daring and resourceful men! 



Then did the Needles Highway loop. The highway is carved out of rock with several one-way tunnels and several “pigtail” bridges where the highway curves back over itself – some very creative surveying and engineering!   The "Eye of the Needle" and Needle Tunnel were awe-inspiring!  Saw lots of deer, one lone buffalo, and 3 mountain goats with their babies.  We were reminded again of the stupidity of some people – a tourist tried to pet the goats, got between the mom and the baby, and very nearly got gored.  Mike was all set up with the camera to capture the million dollar sequence on that one, but the tourist got lucky!  Back to camp after a very long day, but amazing scenery.






Slightly lazy morning today – got up and moving by about 10.  Did another portion of the loop around Rushmore, and then headed for Wind Cave.  More twisting and winding roads (thought of you bike riders and how you would love those roads).  Arrived at Wind Cave, but all of the tours of the cave were full.   So we settled for a leisurely drive back through some of the other alternate routes.  Did the Wild Animal loop and saw several herds of bison, lots of babies (remember Norman from City Slickers?), lots of deer, antelope and the wild burros.   Lots of stops for pictures – good thing it’s all digital now, or we would go broke buying film!   As we drove through the different routes, the words from "How Great Though Art" kept coming back to me - "Oh Lord, my God, as I in awesome wonder, consider all the world thy hand hast made....".  We are so blessed to have so many truly wondrous places in our country!






Atttended the night illumination at Mt. Rushmore tonight,and it was impressive.  Patriotic music before-hand, a nice movie about the development of America and the role each of the 4 presidents played, then the illumination, a reading of Frances Scott Keyes' poem (source of the Star Spangled Banner), then retiring the flag.  The ranger invited all former and current service members down to the stage to retire the flag and I was so proud of Mike as he stood and saluted our flag!  A very moving ceremony.







Back to the motorhome and to bed.  Off to see Jewel Cave and other sights tomorrow.

Things we learned:

  • Buffalo are dangerous (the signs say so!)
  • Buffalo are bigger than our Jeep!
  • It takes longer to get somewhere than we think (mostly because we keep stopping and looking at stuff!)
  • Some tourists are really stupid and have a death wish.  They also think signs like "leave the animals alone" don't apply to them. We call this "genetic selection"......

June 17, 2017:  Lots of travelling since our last post, with long days.  After leaving Lewis & Clark and Three Forks area, we traveled east to Little Big Horn National Monument.  Found a wonderful campground – 7th Ranch Campground, at Garryowen, MT.  We highly recommend it – very helpful staff, immaculate, WONDERFUL showers, and they even allowed us to wash the motorhome and Jeep!  Plus free ice cream at check-in.  Arrived Tuesday afternoon, washed the rigs, settled in and were up and going early on Wednesday morning to Little Big Horn.  First visited a very nice museum at Garryowen, and spent the rest of the day touring the monument.  Did a guided tour with the Apsolooke Tribe – learned the name means “Children of the Large Bird”, which was translated by the French explorers into “Raven” and then by the English into “Crow”, which was the name used in the treaties with the US.  Hence the name “Crow Tribe”.  Took walks on several trails, viewed a very nice video, listened to a ranger talk, and did a self-guided drive tour.  The drive tour was very well done – they had signs at each view point with a cell number – you just called the number, entered the view point number, and listened to an explanation of what was at that site.  Very informative and easy to use.  Both the Apsolooke Tribe and the Park Service have done a good job of providing what seemed to us to be a balanced and historically accurate perspective of what happened there. 




And yes, there were snakes here too!  

Departed the next morning, and headed for Devil’s Tower via Highway 212.  We try not to travel the interstates unless we have to – the other routes are often more scenic.   Arrived at Devil’s Tower, walked the trail all the way around the tower – what a monumental piece of rock!  Visited the prairie dog town next to the campground, grabbed a quick dinner and hit the sack.


Up and out of the campground by 7:30 the next morning.  Grabbed breakfast at a little spot recommended by the camp host and headed east for Mt. Rushmore.  Went through a wonderful little town called Aladdin, with a general store more than 125 years old.  What a fun step back in time that was.  Even saw a camel saddle stool, Betsy Martin!  


On to Belle Fourche and Spearfish.  Stocked up at the Walmart, tried to refill Baxter’s anxiety meds, but they are no longer available.  So a quick call to Companion Animal Hospital, and a change of meds called in to the Rapid City Walgreens (Walmart was not at all helpful to the vet!).  On to Custer, SD via Spearfish Canyon – twisty, windy road but beautiful scenery.  The quaking aspens and black pines are so striking, as are the rock formations. 

Arrived at Custer, found a spot for the night at Big Pines campground.  Set up camp and made a fast run to Rapid City (pun intended) to get meds for Baxter.  Back to Custer, and to bed.


Monday, June 12, 2017

One other amazing thing we saw on Sunday that needs to be posted.   This is a memorial to a slain Montana Highway Patrol trooper who was shot and killed while on a traffic stop in 2010 near Three Forks, MT.  It is amazing, and is dedicated to all Montana law enforcement officers who lost their lives in the line of duty, dating back to the 1800's!

It is located on Montana Highway 2, just outside of Three Forks, and if you are ever in the area you need to stop and see it.  It has his patrol car with the overheads flashing, flags flying at half mast, plaques honoring all the officers, books telling the stories of all of the officers, and places to sit and reflect.  What is amazing is there are 4 notebooks containing all the stories, each on its own page in its own page protector, and not one of them has been stolen, defaced or otherwise vandalized.  There is a lectern with a brass plaque indicating the books are an Eagle Scout project, completed in 2016.

It makes me proud to have been part of the law enforcement community for 26 years!

Glennis





Had a wonderful time at Lewis & Clark Caverns.   Spent Sunday the 11th at Buffalo Jump State Park near Three Forks, MT.  No jumping buffalo, but a very interesting spot.  Did the big loop to the top of the Jump, amazing view from the top.   Opted out of doing the Caverns as we just did some last fall at Oregon Caves, and spent more time with Buffalo Jump.  Wasn't thrilled with the sign at the start of the trail!




Also checked out Headwaters of the Missouri State Park at Three Forks.  Saw pelicans (yes, pelicans!) which was totally unexpected!  Nice little campground there with signs warning about the presence of moose, but unfortunately didn't see any.

Lots of documented history in the area which we really enjoyed.  We tried to stay at this hotel, but they were undergoing renovations and weren't taking guests at this time.  (This actually was a hotel in 2nd Gallatin, MT).

So many lonely old abandoned cabins and houses in the area.  Makes us wonder about the people that built them, their hopes and dreams, and what happened to them.  Such amazing determination, spirit and fortitude to have homestead/settled in this remote area - strong men and women!



Today (June 12th) we headed for Little Big Horn Battlefield.  Stopped and checked out Pompey's Pillar (on the Lewis & Clark trail).  Amazing to see all the names carved on the rock.  Again, we thought about the courage and initiative of these early explorers and settlers, and what drove them to do what they did.  They had special signs there, just for Mike (if you don't know the "rocks in the park story", remind us to tell it to you!)  Mike thought it was rather ironic to have these signs posted, since the whole park was actually about people writing on rocks!  No alarms sounded and no arrests were made, I am happy to report!


Things we learned the past 2 days:

  • Don't take Canadian quarters with you when touring - Mike had 12 quarters for his shower, the 12th one was Canadian, which was rejected, so he had to get dressed and go back to the motor home for the last quarter!
  • The headwaters of the Missouri isn't a little spring in the ground - it's actually the confluence of the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin rivers, all of which are good-sized.
  • Weasels like mice - Mike actually saw one catch and eat a mouse while we were at Pompey's Pillar!  

Beautiful country - truly "Big Sky"!   Spending the night at 7th Ranch RV Park and enjoying a big thunder and lightning display!   Off to view the battlefield tomorrow, and to explore the area.

Mike and Glennis