Last Friday we went with Wilma and JC to the Watson cemetery near Deep Creek outside of Bryson City. We were able to almost drive right to it, but the GPS let us down at the very end, and showed the cemetery on the wrong side of the road. With a little help from a friendly park ranger, we were able to go right to it. We were happily surprised to see it had been cleaned up, brushed out, and many of the graves were decorated. Not sure who did it, but it was nice to see the graves are still being cared for. It is important for the families to assert their right to maintain their heritage and make sure these old cemeteries don't just grow over and get forgotten. While there, we counted 18 unlabeled graves for babies in the center of the cemetery, and many more that were marked for infants and young children. It was a touching reminder of how hard life was in the 1800's for the families that made their living in these mountains. We were able to find Granny Beck's parents and her grandmother on the Watson side, but Wilma says no one has been able to locate her grandfather's grave. Hmmm - that might be a good research project this fall with Susan G.
After the cemetery visit Wilma and JC treated us to lunch in Bryson City and tried to visit the Swain County Historical Society, but their office closed at noon. We will have to again next week - I want to buy the Swain County Heritage book, that has information on Becks, Watsons, Conners, Wiggins and other branches of the family. Wilma shared a lot of genealogy information on the Becks and Watsons and it will be good to get that all documented in our family tree. It is so fun to reminisce and talk about all the old stories. Wilma was so fortunate to have a wonderful relationship with both Granny and Grandpa, and has wonderful memories. Then a quick trip back to Franklin, and Wilma had to get ready for her 50th class reunion!
On Saturday, we had a leisurely morning and then decided to try and find Grandpa and Granny's old house. We drove out the 64 By-pass, and just kept trying side roads. Finally looked up the Cartoogechaye Baptist Church and found it - I knew if we found the church, I could find the house. So up the Old Murphy Road - the road over the mountain to Chatanooga - until we hit Sudderth Road, a quick trip down that road and around the corner, and there was the house. The house was sold recently - the husband of the couple that owned it last time we were here had passeed away recently, and his widow sold the property. It was occupied, so we didn't bother the new owners, but snapped a couple quick pictures of the house and old barn. The house looks very different but I could still see the old bones of the house. The man that owned the house previously had started restoration on the barn when we were here last, but never got past that point. It is in sad shape and I wouldn't be surprised if it was gone on our next visit. Many fond memories of time spent with Grandpa and playing in the barn!
While trying the side roads, we happened upon the most wonderful little Episcopal church tucked away in the woods - St. John's Cartoogechaye. It is a beautiful old wooden church, nestled in the trees, and so welcoming. We were pleasantly surprised to find the door to the sanctuary unlocked, so we went in to say a quick prayer. We were greeted by two old neighbor dogs who are the "unofficial greeters" - anytime there are people there, the dogs are there too. There is a beautiful church yard there as well, with many old graves, a lot of them dating back into the 1800's. We decided to go back for the Sunday morning service, which was wonderful. It was our first Episcopal service since leaving Hoquiam - nice to hear and participate in the familiar liturgy and communion - although we have been to church with Casey twice.
Saturday night saw us back at the motor home for a quiet evening.
Met up with Wilma and JC again on Sunday after church - went to Clayton for a very nice lunch at "Fishies" - good food, good conversation, lots of laughter and stories. The toured us around to see their property on the river (a wonderful spot!) and Colby's house. Got to meet him and the neighbor's turkey stopped by to say hello while we were there! Back to Franklin, and had dinner with Aunt Ruth and Dennis and Debbie Ray (Aunt Ruth's son and daughter-in-law). It was good to catch up with them - we keep asking them when they are coming out our way! Dennis works long, long hours, and so does Debbie. Looking forward to sharing our side of the world with them soon. And the same goes for Wilma and JC. And by the way, we do do other things besides eat, although it's hard to tell from this story!
Monday morning we started getting ready to depart on Tuesday. Got the motor home cleaned out, went to see Aunt Ruth again. Had lunch (yes, eating again!), and then took a wreath out to Dad's grave at the cemetery in Franklin. Took supplies to clean up the headstones - Aunt Ruth reached down to clear some dried grass from Dad's headstone and hollered "SNAKE" - scared me to death! We had a little metal stand for the wreath, so Mike took that and pulled the grass back - we're pretty sure it was just a harmless garter snake, but decided to leave it in peace and just work around it! Funny that it was at Dad's headstone - he HATED snakes! Got all the graves cleaned up (Grandma and Grandpa Beck, Dad, Ralph Ray (Aunt Ruth's first husband) and John Corey (her 2nd husband), and then took her over for a nice visit with Aunt Mildred. We love them both so much - we are all so sad we aren't closer geographically so we could spend more time together. Wilma came by while we were there, so more visiting and reminiscing. Then took Aunt Ruth home, sat and visited a bit more, and then off to do some laundry.
Then out to Wilma and JC's for more food! JC had a big pitcher of margaritas ready, so I became the designated driver. He fixed a wonderful meal of fresh rainbow trout - they were delicious. More great conversation, and then Wilma and I teamed up to beat the pants off the guys at Sequence (a really fun board game we are all hooked on). Sat on the porch and visited some more, then headed back with Mike as the co-pilot (JC makes a mean margarita). Got back to the park about 1 AM!!
Up on Tuesday morning and packed up. Headed out from the RV park about 11:30, bound for Cherokee. Got to the national park campground at Smokemont and got all settled in. Did a quick tour around the area (back to Cherokee to catch up on email and text messages) and settled in for the night after a long walk through the campground (it is really big!).
Wednesday morning we were up and headed into Cherokee to touch base with Scott and Daniel Sipe about setting up a video conference for Thursday. Also got caught up on email and text messages - the campground is in a deep valley with NO cell service. It is on the Bradley Fork of the Oconaluftee River - my great-grandmother was Alice Examine Bradley and her family lived in the area. The campground is just up the road from the Beck church (officially the Lufty (or Smokemont) .Baptist Church), and not too far up the road from the old Beck homestead of my great-grandfather (Jacob Henry Beck - he married Alice Bradley). The Beck cemetery is right by the homestead on Beck's Branch (aka creek) , just below Beck's Bald (mountain). Lots of family history to explore and appreciate. As we were leaving that morning and driving by the Beck Church, someone there was ringing the church bell - what an amazing feeling. I could just feel my grandparents and great-grandparents, with Uncle Merritt and Dad in tow, heading up the path to the church. It is very plain, and I can guarantee NO ONE would fall asleep on the pews inside- they are NOT comfortable. But wonderful workmanship, and it has stood for over 100 years! Jacob Henry's father was a founding member of the church in the 1830's. Baxter really enjoyed drinking from the pipe pouring water out of a spring by the church - a very common occurrence in this area, and sweet, swseet water! Look closely at the last picture to see the church as you see it through the woods while walking up.
On our way into Cherokee we stopped by the Mingus Mill - where the settlers ground their corn and wheat. Dad and Uncle Merrit used to go there when they were little. It is still in working order, and run by the park service as a demonstration project during the summer months. Of course, we had to stock up on cornmeal and sorghum molasses - yum!
Stopped by the visitor's center at Oconaluftee and walked a short part of the river trail - Baxter appreciated the cool shade and a nice drink from the river there. While we were there, the elk herd decided to make an appearance near the visitor's center. There was an instant traffic jam, as the tourists just stopped in the road and got out to take pictures. The elk were totally unconcerned by all the commotion, and even laid down within 30 yards of the road to take a nap! They were really reddish in color and a lot smaller than ours. There were quite a few bulls in the herd right now. They are making a pretty dramatic comeback, after being re-introduced in the early 2000's with stock from Manitoba (the most genetically close to the ones that were here).
On the way back to the motor home, stopped by the Beck's Branch and looked around to make sure we could find both cemeteries there (the "Old" Beck cemetery and the "New" Beck cemetery. Located where Till Beck's house stood - the bushes that stood around the house are still there. While we were there two hikers came off the Bradley Loop trail so we chatted with them a bit. They advised this has been a bad year for snakes - they saw THREE of them today! We are wearing boots and long pants when we go to the cemeteries on Friday! Then back to the Beck church for pictures and a video, accompanied by the ringing church bell. The bell has a beautiful sound, and I'm sure it could be heard for a long distance, ringing through the "hollers" and calling all of the families to worship.
Thursday morning we had fried cornmeal mush for breakfast - delicious, and extra special as it was made with cornmeal from the Mingus Mill! Then off to Bryson City to purchase a Swain County Heritage book from the Swain County Historical Society. Also purchased a book on Swain County cemeteries - was pleased to see the Beck cemetery at Smokemont was the first one listed! Then back to Cherokee, where we connected with Scott and Daniel Sipe.
We are so humbled and touched to have been presented today with the Joel Wolfe award for community service by the Grays Harbor United Way. Normally this is a surprise award that is not announced until their annual meeting, but since we weren't going to be anywhere close to Grays Harbor, they swore us to secrecy and told us in advance. Scott and Daniel came through, as usual, and connected us "live" with their annual meeting via video-conferencing -- we could see and hear them, and they could see and hear us! So we were "live", even though we weren't there. A huge "thank you" to Scott and Daniel, to Betsy Seidel and Chief Jeff Myers for the nomination, and to Kelley and the United Way board for this great honor!!!
After the award ceremony, we drove up the Great Smoky Mountain Parkway towards Tennessee, and up to Clingman's Dome. It is the highest point in Tennessee and has amazing views of the Great Smoky's. We weren't able to walk up to the observation tower (no dogs allowed and we had Baxter with us), so we will hopefully go back on Saturday sans Baxter and walk up to the observation tower. One of the signs we saw told us that air pollution has dramatically cut visibility in the mountains - previously, you could see 100 miles in all directions from Clingman's Dome. Now, on all-too-frequent occasions, visibility is cut to just 20 miles!
Mike has a friend from the service who lives in North Carolina and is only about an hour away at a family event, so we are hopefuly he will be able to make it over to Smokemont on Saturday and share Clingman's Dome with us and spend the night. Will be good to catch up!
Scoped out locations for the other families in our new book, and that's our plan for tomorrow. Turns out the Bradley cemetery is located right here by the campground!
Off to bed. It has been cool at night (down in the mid-60's) as we are in the mountains, which has been very nice. Days are still warm, but not terribly hot (mid-80's).
Mike and Glennis
Things we have learned:
- Snakes show up in the darndest places, and surprise the heck out of you!
- I STILL HATE SNAKES!
- There are wonders to be discovered around every turn of the road - adventure awaits those who strike off to see what's around the next corner
- We LOVE our family - when we are together it's like we were never apart
- Recognition for helping others is a humbling experience!
- The number of generations who have settled this part of the country is truly inspiring
- Great Smoky Mountain elk are SIGNIFICANTLY smaller than our Olympic Elk
- According to Mike, it's a good thing Wilma and I are on opposite sides of the country - he's not sure the world is ready for the two of us together all the time! And he can't even imagine what it would be like with all the Beck girls together!
- We need to have a Beck Girls Reunion with east and west coast cousins!
